Backpacker’s Guide To Popayan
Quick answer: Popayan, Colombia’s “White City”, is a compact colonial gem that backpackers can explore entirely on foot. This backpacker’s guide to Popayan covers how to get there, what to see, cheap vegetarian and local places to eat, and where to sleep on a budget.
Popayan has long been overlooked by backpackers, yet it has played a major role in Colombia’s history from the early days of the Spanish conquest into the twentieth century. Nicknamed the “Ciudad Blanca” (white city), its narrow cobblestone streets are lined with the white walls of historic buildings featuring beautifully kept balconies.
Getting to Popayan
- By bus: frequent buses from Bogota and Cali in the north, Neiva and San Agustin in the east, and Ipiales and Pasto in the south.
- By air: the airport is open between 6 AM and 6 PM and has daily flights to and from Bogota.
Getting to the Centre from the Bus Station or Airport
From the bus terminal
The centre of Popayan is an easy walk from the bus terminal. After exiting, cross the road using the red footbridge and walk five blocks straight until you reach the centre. A taxi costs 4,000 COP.
From the airport
Popayan’s airport is next to the bus station, about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre. A taxi to the centre costs 4,000 COP.
Getting Around Popayan
Popayan is a small city, and the best way to enjoy the beauty of the colonial centre is simply to walk its cobblestone streets.
What to See in Popayan
Torre del Reloj
The clock tower is the bell tower of the Cathedral Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Built around 1900, it is the third tower on the site and was restored after the 1983 earthquake. The clock is stuck at 2:45, and locals believe it has been that way since the earthquake.
Iglesia de San Francisco
One of the most important religious sites in Colombia. Its bell tower holds one of the largest gold and bronze bells in the Americas, and inside, white walls flank a tall golden altar that stretches to the ceiling.
Puente del Humilladero and Puente de la Custodia
The Puente del Humilladero is an emblematic 240m-long, 11-arch brick bridge, built in the mid-19th century to improve access to the centre from the poor northern suburbs. Next to it is the Puente de la Custodia, a pretty stone bridge built in 1713 so priests could cross the Río Molino to bring holy orders to the sick.
El Morro de Tulcán
Popayan’s main archaeological site is an indigenous pyramid said to date from the pre-Columbian period, approximately between 1600 and 500 BC. On top stands a statue of the Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar, who founded Popayan for Spain.
Museo Nacional Guillermo Valencia
This house museum is linked to the Valencia family, whose Guillermo León Valencia served as Colombian President from 1962 to 1966. It displays personal items such as photographs, furniture, artwork and decorations, and has a garden, a chapel, an interactive room and a reading room. There is a free guided tour.
Iglesia La Ermita
Popayan’s oldest church is worth visiting for its fine main retable and fragments of old frescoes that were only discovered after the 1983 earthquake.
Rincon Payanés
A few blocks from the historic centre, this interesting site recreates some of Popayan’s important landmarks, including Iglesia La Ermita.
Capilla de Belén
This chapel sits on a hill just east of the city centre and offers nice views over the town. Visit during daylight, as robberies and petty crime have been reported there after dark.
Where to Eat in Popayan on a Budget
| Restaurant | Address | What to expect | Price from |
|---|---|---|---|
| El Mano | Calle 7, 9-56 (at Carrera 10) | Vegetarian lunch | 4,300 COP |
| Kanda Restaurante Cafe | Calle 5, 8-53 | Vegetarian lunch, juices, cookies | 4,000 COP |
| Mecato De Aliria | Calle 6, between Carreras 5 and 6 | Caucan cuisine and fast food | 4,000 COP |
El Mano is an ideal lunch choice: pick 7 of their 12 options, usually soup or salad, a main of rice or pasta with fake meat and lentils or beans, a sweet dish and fruit salad, with juice or tea.
Kanda Restaurante Cafe serves a vegetarian lunch of fake-meat entrée, soup, mixed salad, brown rice, beans, fruit juice and a small dessert. They also sell fresh fruit juices and whole-grain cookies.
Mecato De Aliria specialises in typical Caucan (regional) cuisine and fast food.
Where to Sleep in Popayan
Hostel Trail: Hostel Trail is two blocks from Popayan’s main square and is a super economical hostel.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Popayan called the White City?
Popayan is nicknamed the “Ciudad Blanca” because its historic centre is lined with white-walled colonial buildings.
How much is a taxi from Popayan bus station to the centre?
A taxi costs 4,000 COP, though the centre is only five blocks’ walk from the bus terminal.
Is Popayan safe for backpackers?
The centre is easy to explore on foot, but visit Capilla de Belén in daylight, as petty crime has been reported there after evening.
Where can vegetarians eat in Popayan?
El Mano and Kanda Restaurante Cafe both serve cheap vegetarian set lunches.
Conclusion
With its white colonial streets, historic churches and bridges, budget-friendly food and walkable centre, Popayan deserves a spot on every Colombia backpacking route. Use this backpacker’s guide to Popayan to plan your stay.
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