Jujuy

Quick answer: You can explore Jujuy in northern Argentina on a small budget by basing yourself in the Quebrada de Humahuaca: stop in Purmamarca for the Hill of Seven Colours, stay in Tilcara for the Pucara fortress and Garganta del Diablo, and take a day trip to Humahuaca for the 14-coloured mountains. Buses between the towns cost just a few dollars.

The enormity of the endeavour escaped me as the bus devoured the last few metres of the 1,700-kilometre ride from Puerto Iguazu to San Salvador de Jujuy in northern Argentina. Jujuy turned out just as I had pictured it from the vignettes I glimpsed on that long-haul journey.

Jujuy’s modern bus terminal sits between Route 66 and Route 9. From there you can get connections to Purmamarca, Tilcara and all the way up to La Quiaca on the Bolivian border.

Here’s how you can explore Jujuy without spending much.

Stop by Purmamarca

Purmamarca is 65 kilometres north of San Salvador de Jujuy, at 2,192 metres above sea level. It is so small that you can explore the whole town in a few hours by strolling its dusty, narrow streets, unless you want to take an organised tour to Salinas Grandes, which takes an entire day.

The bus from the Jujuy capital terminates at a little plaza. Walk towards the main square and you will find the tourism office on your left, where staff will look after your luggage for 10 Argentinian pesos (60 cents) while you grab a map and soak up the grandeur of Purmamarca.

Cerro de los Siete Colores

The village is embraced by the hill called “Siete Colores” (seven colours), the most prominent attraction in Purmamarca. Contemplate its colours and immerse yourself in the tranquillity of the area.

Its green, red, pink, white, yellow, violet and grey shades are created by minerals such as copper, iron, sulphur, dolomite, lead, hematite and lime. The 3-kilometre tourist trail around it takes about an hour to hike.

Expenses:

• Bus from Jujuy to Purmamarca: 55 pesos (USD 3.6)
• Baggage fee: 10 pesos (60 cents)

Stay in Tilcara

Tilcara is an alluring village 23 kilometres north of Purmamarca. The bus station is on Route 9, next to the petrol station, and the walk to the centre takes no more than 15 minutes.

Garganta del Diablo

Garganta del Diablo is one of the most visited sites. It is a four-hour hike from the centre, with stunning views from the heights along the way, where you can truly appreciate the immensity of nature. There is an entrance fee of 15 pesos (USD 1).

Pucara de Tilcara

Pucara is Tilcara’s prime attraction. This pre-Inca fortification was declared a National Monument in 2000 and is the only publicly accessible archaeological site in the Quebrada de Humahuaca.

It is about 2 kilometres from the town centre. Entry costs 60 pesos (USD 4) and also includes the Archaeological Museum on the main square and the Botanic Garden of Heights.

Where to Eat and Stay in Tilcara

Stop by La Peña de Carlitos for dinner. A peña is a traditional restaurant where folk musicians drop by and play traditional music in return for food and drink, and La Peña de Carlitos hosts live music every evening from 2030 hrs.

Hostel Waira and Camp Site is one of the top-rated hostels in Tilcara. Known for its lavish breakfast and inviting ambience, it is in the centre of town and offers dorms from USD 11 per night.

Expenses:

• Garganta del Diablo: 15 pesos (USD 1)
• Entrance to Pucara: 60 pesos (USD 4)
• A night in the hostel: USD 11

Take a Day Trip to Humahuaca

Humahuaca lies 45 kilometres north of Tilcara. The quaint village is popular for the Cerro de Catorce Colores (14-coloured mountains).

Humahuaca has regular bus services to and from La Quiaca on the Bolivian border, Jujuy (the capital, Purmamarca and Tilcara) and Salta.

In the centre of Humahuaca there is a bell tower with a clock that chimes at noon. A small door then opens and a figure of Saint Francisco Solano emerges and makes the sign of the cross.

Getting to the 14-Coloured Mountains

The Cerro de Catorce Colores is 25 kilometres north of Humahuaca. To get there, flag down a 4×4, which costs 120–150 Argentinian pesos (USD 8–10) per person for a round trip.

To find the 4×4 stop from the bus station, walk three blocks north to the bridge; on the right side you will find 4×4 drivers looking for passengers.

Expenses:

• Bus from Tilcara to Humahuaca: 30 pesos (USD 2)
• 4×4 to Cerro de Catorce Colores: 120 pesos (USD 8)

Frequently Asked Questions

How far is Purmamarca from San Salvador de Jujuy?

About 65 kilometres north, and the bus costs 55 pesos (USD 3.6).

What is the main attraction in Tilcara?

The Pucara, a pre-Inca fortification and National Monument about 2 kilometres from the centre.

How do you get to the 14-coloured mountains from Humahuaca?

By shared 4×4 from near the bridge, three blocks north of the bus station, for 120–150 pesos per person round trip.

Conclusion

Jujuy rewards budget travellers with colourful mountains, ancient ruins and folk music, all linked by cheap local buses. Follow the Purmamarca–Tilcara–Humahuaca route and you can see the best of Jujuy without spending much.