Exploring Lake Titicaca (Peruvian Side)

Exploring Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian side means visiting three islands open to tourism: the floating Uros islands, Amantani and Taquile. I did it on a 2-day tour from Puno, spending a night with a local family on Amantani. Here is how the trip unfolded.

About Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake with a surface elevation of 3,812 metres (12,507 ft), is one of the most visited attractions in Peru. It straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia, and the beauty of its brightly reflective water draws many tourists to both sides.

• Peruvian side: Uros, Amantani and Taquile
• Bolivian side: Isla del Sol, Isla de la Luna and Suriki

I decided to go on a 2-day tour on the Peruvian side with Planet Odysseys.

The tour started with a 7 a.m. pick-up from the hotel. We drove to Puno’s harbour, where we met our tour guide and boarded the boat to explore this hidden gem.

Day 1: The Floating Islands of Uros

Seven kilometres off the coast of Puno, the Uros islands are Lake Titicaca’s prime attraction and our first stop. The boat anchored on the shore of one of the floating islands, and the shimmering rays of the morning sun made the golden reeds glow.

We lolled on a broken branch as our guide explained how the Uru people live.

How the Uros Islands Work

He started with an astonishing fact: the natives speak Aymara, not Spanish or Quechua. According to our guide, the first civilization here dates back to 1500 BC.

• Uros’s 60 artificial floating islands are clustered on the western coast of the lake.
• They are made of layers of cut totora, a thick, buoyant reed that grows abundantly in the shallows.
• Each island measures about 50 feet by 50 feet and elects a head every three months.
• Fishing is the main occupation, alongside handicrafts sold mainly to visitors.
• Education and healthcare are sought in Puno.

Meeting the Island President

The president of the island stepped up ecstatically next to our guide and treated the group to a quick demonstration of how the islands are built. She greeted us in Aymara with “Kamisaliki” (how are you?), and our guide told us to reply “Waliki, Juspakara” (I am fine, thank you).

She concluded the demonstration by placing two dolls, a man and a woman, cooking.

She then invited us to see her quaint hut, and some of us dressed up in handmade native attire to pose for the camera.

Riding the “Mercedes Benz” Reed Boat

As the tour of this serene island came to an end, we were offered a ride for S/.10 to the next island in Uros on the “Mercedes Benz” boat. These reed boats are exclusively for tourists. They are slightly bigger than standard boats and have an extra structure in the centre that looks a bit like the saddle you’d see on top of an elephant.

An Uru lady rowed us to a bigger island with shops and a restaurant. This is where I got my passport stamped as a souvenir for S/.1.

We then set off on a three-hour journey to Amantani, the island we would call home for the night.

Day 1 Afternoon: Homestay on Amantani Island

The boat devoured the last few kilometres towards Amantani as the distant mound grew larger. The guide briefed us on the itinerary while passing around a photo album of the birds that live on the island.

When the boat docked, we were divided into groups of four and introduced to our hosts, who came to receive us at the pier. After settling into our rooms, we calmed our grumbling stomachs with a delicious lunch of quinoa soup and rice with mixed vegetables.

Pachamama and Pachatata Temples

The major attractions on Amantani are the two pre-Inca temples, Pachamama (Mother Earth) and Pachatata (Father Earth), which symbolise the principle of complementarity and harmony in Andean culture. Watching the sun set over the world’s highest navigable lake from Pachatata was a rewarding sight.

A Night of Folk Music

As darkness swept over the island like a blanket, we dressed in traditional outfits and joined a party where locals played folklore music while travellers grooved to the tune.

The next morning, after an early breakfast, our host walked us to the pier and we sailed off to our last stop, Taquile.

Day 2: Taquile Island

After a nerve-jolting ride through stormy waves, the boat anchored at the foot of Taquile’s terraced slopes. The hike from the pier to the Main Plaza, at 3,950 metres above sea level, took 45 minutes along a winding path of stone steps with the lake on one side.

History and UNESCO-Recognised Textiles

Taquile was once a prized possession of the Incas, whose empire seized the island in the 15th century, and the inhabitants still speak Quechua. Once a political prison, Taquile is now known for its handicrafts, which are recognised by UNESCO.

• Knitting is performed exclusively by men, starting at the age of eight.
• Women spin the wool and dye it using vegetables and minerals.
• Women also weave the Chumpis, the wide belts with woven designs worn by everyone in the community.

Each piece of clothing signals a person’s status in the community. Children wear different hats from adults, women from men, and single people from those who are married, divorced or widowed.

After hiking down the 540 steps, I was back on the boat to Puno, squirrelling away the incredible moments from this paradise in my mental drawer for posterity.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which islands can you visit on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca?

Uros, Amantani and Taquile are the three islands open for tourism on the Peruvian side.

How far are the Uros islands from Puno?

About seven kilometres off the coast of Puno.

How long is the boat ride from Uros to Amantani?

Around three hours.

What is Taquile Island known for?

Its UNESCO-recognised handicrafts, especially textiles knitted by the men and belts woven by the women.

Conclusion

Exploring Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian side over two days gave me floating reed islands, a homestay and sunset on Amantani, and the textile traditions of Taquile. If you are in Puno, it is one of the most rewarding trips you can take.

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