Backpacker’s Guide To Cusco
Quick answer: This backpacker’s guide to Cusco covers how to get there by air or bus, how to get around cheaply, the top things to see around the historic centre, budget places to eat and drink, the best nightclubs and hostels with dorms from about USD 6–10 a night.
Cusco, also known as Cuzco or Qosq’o in Quechua, is the preeminent city of the Inca Empire. Often described as South America’s oldest continuously inhabited city, it is the gateway to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu.
Its narrow cobblestone streets are flanked by tour agencies selling everything from coca leaves to trekking equipment, and massage hawkers try to lure people in. Stay in Cusco for a month or two and you will still leave feeling there is much more to see. The emblematic Plaza de Armas (the Main Square) dominates the historic centre.
Getting to Cusco
By Air
Cusco is served by Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport (CUZ). It is connected to the major Peruvian cities of Lima, Arequipa, Juliaca and Puerto Maldonado, and internationally to Bogotá and La Paz. La Paz flights have been operated by Amaszonas and Peruvian Airlines, and Avianca flies to and from Bogotá with a stopover in Lima.
The airport is quite small, so it is quick and easy to walk out of the terminal on arrival. It is located five kilometres from the Centro Histórico (Historic Centre), the prime attraction and home to many hostels and restaurants.
By Bus
Cusco is well connected by bus with major Peruvian cities and with La Paz and Copacabana in Bolivia. Most buses terminate at the main bus station, Terminal Terrestre.
- Cruz Del Sur operates from its own terminal, a few metres from Terminal Terrestre.
- Peru Hop, a renowned hop-on hop-off bus service covering the whole south of Peru, has its own bus station but provides a drop-off at your hostel.
Click here to see the ways to get to the Centro Histórico.
Getting Around Cusco
Cusco’s beauty is best absorbed on foot, through streets with historic significance at every turn.
- Taxis: should not cost more than S/.4 within the city.
- Urban colectivos: the cheapest option at S/.0.80.
What to See in Cusco
Plaza de Armas
The main square fascinates with its central fountain topped by a statue of Pachacuti, the ninth ruler of the Kingdom of Cusco (“Sapa Inca”) and later Emperor of the Inca Empire, pointing towards the Cristo Blanco (Statue of Christ). The square swarms with hucksters selling handicrafts and shoeshiners.
Historically, the plaza covers part of what was once Haukaypata, the Great Inca Square, also known as the “Square of the Warrior”. It has been the scene of several important events, such as the death of Túpac Amaru II, considered the first leader of the struggle.
The plaza is framed by two landmark churches:
- Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús: construction was begun by the Jesuits in 1576, and it is considered one of the best examples of colonial baroque in the Americas.
- Cusco Cathedral: begun in 1560 and taking nearly 100 years to complete, it is part of Cusco’s UNESCO World Heritage historic centre, was granted Minor Basilica status and is the official seat of the diocese.
Mercado San Pedro
The most visited market in Cusco, Mercado San Pedro is an indoor market with many food stalls, open from 0630 to 1730. The cheapest eateries in town are at the far end, where a Menú del Día (menu of the day) costs S/.5. Try the fresh fruit smoothies, sold at S/.3 per litre.
It is one of the best places to witness local life. As the Cusqueños say, “A trip to Cusco is not complete without a trip to the San Pedro Market.”
San Blas Neighbourhood
San Blas is just four blocks from the Plaza de Armas. It is home to musicians, filmmakers and artisans who show their art and imagery, jewellery, pottery, and wood and stone carving.
It is also home to the Catholic church of San Blas, one of Cusco’s prominent churches, built in 1563 in the ancient Inca neighbourhood of “T’oqokachi”. Visit the San Blas Market (Mercado San Blas), which is smaller and less crowded than San Pedro.
Qorikancha Site Museum
Plaza Intipampa (between Av. El Sol and Calle Santo Domingo), Cusco, Peru.
Qorikancha, Quri Kancha or Koricancha means “courtyard of gold” in Quechua. Originally named Inti Wasi or Inti Kancha, it was the most prominent temple of the Inca Empire in the 15th century, dedicated primarily to the Sun God, Inti. The temple complex was a glittering palace.
Cristo Blanco
Cristo Blanco is a statue of Jesus Christ overlooking the city. It was built by a group of Christian Palestinians who sought asylum in Cusco in 1945, as a symbol of their gratitude and a parting gift when they finally returned home.
Chocolate Museum
Calle Garcilaso 210, Cusco, Peru.
Peru produces and exports cacao beans. The chocolate museum invites visitors to taste different varieties of chocolate and chocolate liqueurs, and runs regular paid workshops that introduce the chocolate-making process.
Saturday Market (Baratillo)
Prolongación Pera Street, Cusco, Peru.
Also known as the Baratillo Market or “the smugglers’ market”, this large, bustling market is held every Saturday. You can find everything from mobile chargers to footwear and antiques, and it is frequented by locals.
Monumento Inca Pachacutec
Pachacutec was the ninth Sapa Inca of the Kingdom of Cusco, which he transformed into the Inca Empire. He is believed to have begun an era of conquest that, within three generations, expanded Inca dominance from the Cusco valley to nearly the whole of western South America. Most archaeologists now believe Machu Picchu was built as an estate for Pachacuti.
The monument rises above Cusco on a large roundabout on Avenida del Sol. Its huge stone structure mimics the ancient Inca quarries, the interior museum gives great insight into Inca history, and at the top a window offers panoramic views, Inca style.
- Entrance fee: S/.2
- Open: 0900–1900
Where to Eat and Drink in Cusco
Mercado San Pedro
Cusco’s bustling central market has some of the cheapest eateries in the city. The food stalls at the far end offer lunch from S/.5 and are open every day from 0630 to 1730.
Mercado San Blas
Calle Tandapata, San Blas, Cusco, Peru.
Here you will be spoilt for choice with inexpensive options. It is open only for breakfast and lunch, but you are sure to get a good meal deal.
Incasa Pizza
Homemade pizza with a set menu of garlic bread, a personal-size pizza and a drink of your choice. Prices start from S/.10.
JC’s Café
One of the finest cafés in Cusco, with an eclectic menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Qosco Beer House
Portal Espinar 155, Cusco, Peru
A paradise for beer lovers, with over 20 different local craft beers at reasonable prices.
Cusco Nightlife
All three of these clubs are open from 2100 to 0600.
Chango Club
A uni-style club with a good mix of Top 40 and local tunes. Promoters on the street often hand out free drink passes for a Cuba Libre (rum and Coke), and drinks are moderately priced.
The Temple Club
Known for its eclectic mix of music. As with Chango, promoters invite you in, usually with a free Cuba Libre, and further drinks are moderately priced.
Mamma Africa
109 Portal de Panes, 3rd Floor, Cusco.
The classic backpackers’ hangout and one of the most popular nightclubs in Cusco. The music ranges from salsa and samba to the latest Latin hits and techno. Drinks are not cheap, but they are moderately priced.
Where to Stay in Cusco: Best Backpacker Hostels
Intro Hostel
Cuesta Santa Ana 515, Cusco, Peru.
Housed in a renovated 300-year-old mansion in the historic centre, it is a perfect place to relax and rejuvenate. Dorms from USD 8 per night.
Andean Soul Hostel
Cuesta Santa Ana 534, Cusco, Peru.
Opened in March 2017 in a colonial mansion. Dorms from USD 8 per night, including breakfast.
Kokopelli Hostel
Calle San Andres 260, Cusco, Peru.
A 200-year-old house converted into a party hostel, where staff do their best to offer the magic of Cusco fused with Kokopelli’s energy. Dorms from USD 10.42 a night.
The Walkon Inn
Calle Suecia 504, Cusco, Peru.
Located uphill a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas, with an excellent view of Cusco. Dorms from USD 5.95 per night.
Frequently Asked Questions
How far is Cusco airport from the historic centre?
Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport is about five kilometres from the Centro Histórico.
How much does a taxi cost in Cusco?
Taxis within the city should not cost more than S/.4, and urban colectivos cost S/.0.80.
Where can backpackers eat cheaply in Cusco?
The food stalls at Mercado San Pedro serve a menu of the day from S/.5, and Mercado San Blas has inexpensive breakfast and lunch options.
How much is a hostel dorm in Cusco?
The hostels in this guide list dorms from USD 5.95 to USD 10.42 per night.
Conclusion
With cheap markets, lively clubs, characterful hostels and Inca history on every corner, Cusco is a backpacker’s dream. Use this backpacker’s guide to Cusco to plan your stay, and don’t be surprised if you leave feeling there is still more to see.
Cusco looks so charming and full of elegance. Some of the pictures strangely remind of the European quarters in Macau. The street with the winding steps looks fascinating.
Sigh! Every post on Peru gets me so worked up about when I can get here. Saving up for it but well, it is an expensive destination from where I am right now. Museums, Incan trails…even that Plaza Principal….sounds just amazing! Fingers crossed that I can make a trip here sooooooon!
I see you have put quiet a comprehensive post including how to reach here, what all to see and a little bit of history as well. That’s really cool. Never been here, but when I plan, I will check your post again
So interesting to think that there are clubs in the middle of this ancient place. San Blas Neighborhood looks quite eccentric and wonderful. Need to give it a try sometime.
I would love to visit Cusco, and visit their chocolate museum. On the day we were supposed to visit, there were heavy rains and travel to the area was not recommended. Hopefully I’ll get there on my next trip to Peru.
We loved Cusco. The Christo Blanco is mesmerising. We didn’t notice it when seeing it person, but when we saw the close up photos we took with a super zoom lens, His eyes have concentric circles that make him look hypnotised. It’s a very cool site.