Muang Ngoi Neua Laos
Muang Ngoi Neua is a sleepy riverside village in northern Laos, reached by an hour’s boat ride up the Nam Ou River from Nong Khiaw. Set among white limestone mountains, it is the kind of place where travellers take a vacation from their vacation. Here is what I found there, from where to stay to what to do.
Getting to Muang Ngoi Neua Laos
My trip started at Nong Khiaw with an hour-long boat ride on the Nam Ou River. The scenery along the way was spectacular, and after taking in one incredible view after another, the boat docked on the shore of this little town in the northern part of Laos.
Muang Ngoi Neua is a hideaway from busier places like Luang Prabang, the capital Vientiane, or Vang Vieng, which is flooded with backpackers. My advice is to stay offline and simply enjoy what the village has to offer.
Where to Stay in Muang Ngoi Neua
As soon as the boat arrives, women from the village meet travellers at the pier to show them their guesthouses. Prices I was quoted:
- Most guesthouses: around 60,000 kip (7.5$) per night
- Two guesthouses with WiFi: 80,000 kip (10$) per night – the only two offering WiFi in the village
After a short walk with my heavily packed backpack, I settled at Aloune Mai Guest House. It is a stone’s throw from the boat pier and offers river-facing rooms with a hammock outside each one. I was astounded to get a room for just 50,000 kip (6$) per night with a splendid view of the Nam Ou River.
Aloune Mai Guest House. To book, contact Jay (+856-20-23861382)
Getting Around the Village
Muang Ngoi Neua has one main road, and it is a dirt road too narrow for a vehicle to pass comfortably. It runs parallel to the Nam Ou River, with a few paths branching off at right angles.
Along this road you will find several restaurants, guesthouses and shops. At its north end sits a beautiful Buddhist temple, Wat Okad.
Check out the video on Northern Laos in my YouTube Channel
Life in Muang Ngoi Neua
The village comes to life early in the morning, as most villagers are fishermen who head out in their boats before dawn.
Locals live much of their lives outside their houses. Women cook the well-known sticky rice or noodle soups, and some run small stalls where locals and tourists can enjoy their food. Men skilfully saw wood or cast fishing nets. As you walk around, you will often hear “Sabaidi”, the Lao way of saying hello.
A 3-minute walk from the main road, behind the Indian restaurant on the way to the Tham Pha Kaew cave, is the only school in the village. Three teachers from the village run the whole school.
Things to Do in Muang Ngoi Neua Laos
Explore the Tham Pha Kaew Cave
There are many incredible treks and trails around Muang Ngoi Neua. I chose a 30-minute walk along another dirt road to explore the Tham Pha Kaew cave. On the way you pass a toll booth where tickets cost 10,000 kip each.
Using my mobile’s flash as a torch, I ventured a few metres into the massive cave. Tham Pha Kaew, along with the Tham Kang cave, was used as a bomb shelter during the Vietnam War era.
Visit the Regional Market
Every 10 days a regional market is held, where tribal villagers come to trade.
Slow Down in the Evening
As the sun sinks behind the mountains, the day in the village draws to a close. By 9 pm people head to bed, and the restaurants and shops pull down their shutters. Darkness settles like a blanket over the whole area.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get to Muang Ngoi Neua?
Take a boat from Nong Khiaw along the Nam Ou River. The ride takes about an hour.
How much does a guesthouse cost in Muang Ngoi Neua?
Most guesthouses quoted around 60,000 kip (7.5$) per night, the two with WiFi asked 80,000 kip (10$), and I stayed at Aloune Mai Guest House for 50,000 kip (6$).
Is there WiFi in Muang Ngoi Neua?
Only two guesthouses in the village offered WiFi when I visited, so plan to spend some time offline.
How much is the entry to Tham Pha Kaew cave?
The toll booth on the way to the cave charges 10,000 kip per ticket.
Final Thoughts
Muang Ngoi Neua Laos is a place to unplug: river views from a hammock, quiet dirt lanes, caves with wartime history and early nights under a dark sky. If the backpacker crowds of Vang Vieng or Luang Prabang feel too busy, this little village on the Nam Ou is worth the boat ride.
I’ve always booked ahead of arrival, but you seem to have just showed up at someone’s door, and gotten a room, how adventurous of you. I think a lot of us type A personalities would develop anxiety if we did it your way. It nevertheless looks like an amazing adventure.
One of the most common things I’ve heard about Laos is that it’s quiet and peaceful, much unlike other countries like Cambodia and Thailand (which are more ‘popular’ on the SE Asia backpacking route). I feel like your post really encompasses the charm of this peacefulness, and I’d definitely like to experience it for myself someday 🙂
Love the local feeling in the area. So serene and and relaxing. Great value for the Aloune Mai Guest House. Affordable expenses in Muan Ngoi Neua but truly priceless experiences.
That’s great that you’ve been to this little piece of Laos. I was there years ago and there was barely any guesthouses or places to eat. It’s a beautiful place!
The slow peacefulness in Laos is an experience in itself. I’ve had great food there, and met truly lovely people.
You have captured very well the nuances of this charming town, which looks like a great oasis and an escape from the bustling cities of the world.
Loved how descriptive you were! I’m definitely checking out more of your blog.
This looks like a lovely town to visit. The market would be a great experience and I’m a huge fan of visiting caves.
A beautiful little pocket of an equally beautiful country.
That said, I never really thought anywhere in Laos a bustling city, aside from Vientiene… 🙂